THE JEWEL of the Italian Riviera, Portofino’s charm is in its intimacy. Its roots stretch back to the time of Pliny the Elder, who recorded that it was named Portus Delphini for the many dolphins which could be found there. Originally a fishing village, Portofino first attracted aristocratic patronage in the 19th century but has maintained its intimate, rustic feel to this day. One never forgets the sight of Portofino’s beautiful pastel-toned houses bordering the turquoise waters of the bay.
Above all, there’s a sense of privacy here; Portofino feels like a secret retreat. This, along with its incredible beauty, accounts for Portofino’s appeal to artists and actors across the eras. The sense of old-school glamour that pervades the town, though, has its roots in Fellini’s stylish 1960 masterpiece La Dolce Vita.
Pleasing one’s senses is easy in this part of the world. Naturally, seafood is buonissimo here. But it tastes even better when discovered in a tiny cavern restaurant, such as Batti in Santa Margherita Ligure. Or, take a speedboat to the hidden cove of San Fruttuoso to enjoy fritto misto from Da Laura trattoria. Dine at wooden tables on the beach and gaze out at the cool ocean.
Activities to suit any appetites can be found in Portofino. Stroll among the lush green gardens that surround Splendido, a Belmond hotel, and you’ll be rewarded with the warm afternoon scent of lavender, olive trees and bougainvillea. Those seeking more energetic pursuits can scuba dive and kayak around the coast. Visitors wishing to simply bask in Portofino’s beauty can opt for a sunset cruise around the cove.
PESTO MASTERCLASS
Learn how to make traditional Ligurian pesto to an original recipe so that you can recreate it back home. Fresh basil, pine nuts, parmesan, olive oil, garlic and the helping hand of the hotel's Chef are all you need for this fun activity. After preparing the sauce you will be able to sample it with pasta in the popular local dish, trofie al pesto. Also, make sure to dine in the Restaurant to discover a full range of pesto specialities.
OLIVE OIL TASTING
Learn how to distinguish the many flavours of Green Gold olive oil, produced in abundance around Portofino. Sample different varieties with local focaccia or bread, and gain insight into the fascinating production process.
PIZZA MAKING
Join expert pizza-makers at the pool restaurant and discover how they knead their dough to create such mouth-watering results. Suitable for adults and children, the experience can be personalised to your tastes with different flavours and toppings.
ICE CREAM TASTING
Welcome to Gelateria San Giorgio, in the heart of the Piazzetta, where you are invited to try the famous Paciugo ice cream, or taste different varieties to discover your favourite.
WINE TASTING
Let the hotel's Sommelier take your taste buds on a journey through Ligurian and other regional Italian wines, including the sought after Cinque Terre varieties that are produced in such small batches they are rarely tasted outside of the region. Gain insight into the local grapes, the cultivation methods employed on the steep and rugged hillsides, and other unique features that contribute to the creation of these delicious wines.
CANINE MASSAGE & DOG SITTING
Treat your four-pawed friend to a specialist canine massage at the Wellness Centre. As well as pampering your dog, the hotel'sexpert can look after it in the outdoor area.
DOG WALK
A dog-friendly circuit to enjoy with your pet takes you from Portofino Mare to Paraggi. Wander the ancient paths of Mount Portofino to this enchanting bay, enjoying beautiful landscapes all the way, then either return to Portofino or continue towards Santa Margherita Ligure.
BIKE TOUR AND WINE TASTING WITH A VIEW
Pedal along the beautiful Portofino coast in the company of a private guide and uncover the fascinating stories behind this breathtaking region. Arrive at La Portofinese vineyard, where an exclusive tasting of delicious food and wine awaits. Your table is set in no ordinary venue: this is the only vineyard in Portofino where you can gaze over the glittering Ligurian Sea as you sample local delicacies.
PICNIC LUNCH AT A LOCAL FARM
Venture high onto the protected Mount Portofino to visit the verdant grounds of a self-sufficient eco-farm. Discover tranquil olive groves, beehives and flourishing vineyards jutting towards the scenic Cala degli Inglesi – Bay of the English. After exploring, enjoy a tasty picnic in a panoramic spot and feast on homemade focaccia, local Parma ham, salami, fresh fruits, farm-to-table vegetable pies, the farm’s own honey and cheese, craft beer and white wine.
FARMHOUSE EXPERIENCE
The Park of Portofino offers an idyllic setting in which to reconnect with nature. Visit Coppelli’s olive press and mill, a new attraction at La Portofinese sustainable farm, immersed in the green hills surrounding Portofino. Join an agronomist in the vegetable garden to collect fresh, seasonal vegetables and fruits. Then roll up your sleeves and learn to cook the way traditional Ligurian mothers and grandmothers have always done for their families. With the guidance of a local chef, master the secrets of time-honoured dishes before gathering for lunch on the pergola overlooking picturesque Mount Portofino.
WINE TASTING UNDERGROUND
Discover a unique underground space that has been transformed into an ecological wine cellar. Former war shelters and tunnels excavated in Portofino in the 1960s happen to have the perfect geothermal system for storing wine. The cellar, belonging to La Portofinese sustainable farm, also contains a research laboratory and data collection point for the study of renewable energy in the locality. During your visit, you’ll enjoy exclusive access to the cave and a tour of I Coppelli winery, guided by an expert sommelier. The experience concludes with a tasting of delicious local products.
FOCACCIA BAKING
For years Mariangela, known locally as the Queen of Focaccia, has been crafting mouthwatering breads and pastries in her bakery, Panificio Canale. Her savoury, crisp focaccia is so good, it’s the only item that the hotel doesn't make by themselves. Early birds can taste the focaccia at the famous bakery from 8am, pairing the soft, crunchy bread with a cappuccino for a typical Portofino breakfast.
SHOPPING IN PORTOFINO
Italians are known for their innate style, which is why the country offers some of the best shopping in the world. Portofino may be compact, but it boasts a wealth of chic boutiques. Stroll along Molo Umberto I, Calata Marconi, Via Roma and Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta to discover big-name luxury brands. Spinnaker, which opened in 1976, is home to labels including Bottega Veneta, Valentino, Hermès and Prada. A range of enticing artisan shops sell sumptuous jewellery, silk pyjamas and embroidered linen. Try Calzoleria Mingo Portofino for handmade sandals, Orizzonti for summer dresses and straw hats and Loro Piana for silk and cashmere clothing for men and women. Continue your shopping indulgence at Belmond Hotel Splendido, where a fashion collection inspired by the hotel’s famous wisteria includes 1950s and ‘60s style gowns and skirts, kaftans, foulards and exceptional handcrafted accessories.
WALKING IN THE REGIONAL PARK OF PORTOFINO
The protected Parco Regionale di Portofino occupies most of the headland jutting between the Ligurian resorts of Camogli and Rapallo. Part forested ridge, part Mediterranean scrub, it is traffic-free, making it an inviting place to walk. Take an easy, short stroll from the harbour up a series of steps to the Church of San Giorgio, dramatically situated on the promontory’s narrow neck. Savour the wonderful views before continuing to Castello Brown, an imposing building once inhabited by the British Consul, Montague Yeats Brown. The enchanting dwelling boasts beautiful terraced gardens, including twin pines that Brown planted to celebrate his marriage. Continue along the headland to the lighthouse and perhaps enjoy a picnic overlooking the turquoise sea before retracing your steps. Ask at reception for a map and directions.
PATH OF THE KISS
Adventurous hikers will enjoy the challenge of this breathtaking 12km trek from San Rocco to Camogli and San Fruttuoso. Accompanied by a guide, the route involves steep paths with chains and sharp drops, so is not for the faint-hearted. Your reward? Unbelievable scenery. The romantically titled path was named after two young spirits whose love was not accepted by their parents. Preferring to die rather than be separated, they gave each other a last embrace before leaping to their deaths. But don’t let that deter you!
NATURAL TREASURES
From craft beers to wild honey, discover a range of delicious local products in and around Portofino.
Beehive trail
At the heart of the Portofino Promontory you encounter the beehives responsible for the original Portofino Wild Honey. The hives are arranged in a similar way to those once tended by Benedictine monks. Nearby is an ancient vineyard, restored to splendour using biodynamic cultivation, as well as a thriving olive grove. A range of hikes and tours are available through this beautiful agrarian area, where you can also taste the precious products.
Hops hike
Discover the hops being cultivated for Portofino’s first craft beer, La Portofinese. The result of a simple bet—to see if hops could be cultivated on the hillsides above the town—the delicious beer is produced in a small craft brewery and has been such a success that the original 50 plants are now 350.
MOUNTAIN CYCLING TOUR
Set off on a cycle ride through Liguria’s stunning landscapes, led by a professional guide. Choose to pedal over Mount Portofino or race beside the sea. You will be driven to the top of the promontory to collect your mountain bike and helmet, before heading off to discover the beautiful terrain of the park, enjoying breathtaking views along the way. You will arrive at Il Mulino Gassetta, the old mill, where a breakfast of delicious local delicacies is served.
BOAT TOUR TO PORTOVENERE
Explore Portovenere, a picture-perfect fishing village overlooking the Gulf of Poets, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s much here to delight, from the seafront lined with candy-coloured houses built on the rocks, to the lovely old town, a tight maze of medieval streets and artisan workshops. You’ll be met by a local guide for a fascinating literary tour, full of rich stories about the poets and writers who have fallen in love with Portovenere. Stop for a dip in Lord Byron’s Grotto, before travelling over to unspoilt Palmaria Island to have lunch overlooking the water at the celebrated Locanda Lorena.
ROMANTIC DINNER IN SAN FRUTTUOSO
Celebrate your love in unforgettable style. Hop aboard the hotel's private boat and head to beautiful San Fruttuoso Bay, only accessible from the water or on foot. A secluded table for two awaits on the beach, where you will be served local specialities beneath the starry skies.
SAN FRUTTUOSO & CAMOGLI BOAT TOURS
The hotel’s speedboat—an eye-catching Chris-Craft Corsair 36—can whisk up to 6 guests off on coastal adventures. Enjoy an excursion that helps you explore the area’s wonders.
San Fruttuoso
Between Camogli and Portofino, a secluded inlet is home to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso di Capodimonte, an ancient Benedictine monastery. Accessible only by boat or on foot, the abbey and fishing village inhabit such a magical setting you may need to pinch yourself. Visit the cloisters, the Chapter House, the burial vaults of the aristocratic Doria family and the 16th-century watchtower. Learn about the lives of the monks who lived there, or just relax and absorb the gorgeous views.
Christ of the Abyss
Submerged off the shore of San Fruttuoso, visible when the water is crystal clear, a larger-than-life bronze statue of Christ reaches up in supplication. Created by Guido Galletti, the statue was placed there in 1954 in homage to pioneering scuba diver, Dario Gonzatti, who died on the exact spot in 1947. During low tide you can take a trip out to see it; alternatively arrange to join a scuba diving excursion and admire the haunting work at close quarters.
Camogli
The multicoloured buildings of this enchanting fishing village are familiar to many. Allegedly, sailors and fishermen would use the vibrant façades as points of reference when far out at sea. Immerse yourself in Camogli’s leisurely pace, narrow alleyways and thyme scented hillsides, then head to the bustling harbour for lunch in a seafood restaurant and soak up the irresistible ambience.
Sunset Cruise
Sip an apéritif on the speedboat as the sun goes down on Portofino Bay. Depart at 5.30pm, enjoy canapés and a bottle of chilled champagne on board, and return to Portofino at around 7pm.
LIGURIAN FISHING TRIP
Experience a day in the life of a fisherman aboard the trawler Casteldragone. This inspiring excursion begins with a typical Genoese breakfast of focaccia, after which the crew will demonstrate local fishing techniques and teach you how to cast palamiti, long fishing lines with several hooks attached. After your efforts, cool off with a refreshing dip in the crystalline waters of the famous Blue Mile or the Gulf of Paradise, depending on where the mermaids’ chant has led you. Meanwhile, crewmember Renato is busy preparing a delicious lunch featuring the catch of the day. Before returning home, visit the tiny fishing museum at Punta Chiappa to discover more about the rich maritime history of Liguria.
SCUBA DIVING
Add a magical dimension to your stay by joining a Discover Scuba Diving programme in the Portofino Protected Marine area. Seize the opportunity to explore spaces and life forms in the absolute silence of the abyss. Be enchanted by iridescent seahorses and ruby red sponges, glimpse moray eels and octopuses, study turtles and lobsters.
SUNSET & FULL MOON KAYAK EXPERIENCES
Paddle through the crystal-clear waters of the Portofino promontory at sunset to witness mesmerising colours and dazzling reflections. From Niasca beach, kayak to the picturesque inlet of Olivetta. Along the way your guide will point out interesting highlights, such as the intriguing caverns and creeks that dot the coastline. Leave your kayak on Olivetta beach and walk the short distance to the lighthouse. Here, at a splendid vantage point looking out over the “two seas” on each side of the promontory, sip a specially prepared sunset aperitif. Once a month you can also enjoy this spellbinding experience under the light of the silvery full moon.
CINQUE TERRE
In this little corner of Liguria, generations have carved out the landscape from the steep terraces that plunge into the sea. Over 7,000km of drystone walling, cleverly constructed without cement, frames vineyards that reach down almost to the lapping waves. The astonishing area is both a protected national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Famous Five
Departing from Portofino, the first village you come to is Monterosso al Mare, which boasts an expansive beach and promenade. Vernazza is a natural port, protected from the sea by a rocky promontory, and the only safe landing point in the Cinque Terre. Corniglia, nestling on a hill surrounded by vineyards, is a delightful cluster of multicoloured houses. Equally picturesque are the unspoilt villages of Manarola and Riomaggiore, clinging to the rock face.
Fabulous footpaths
Without doubt, the best way to appreciate the Cinque Terre is on foot. Along paths that until recently were the only means of communication you discover bewitching landscapes, suspended between sky and sea. Terraced vineyards alternate with strips of olive trees and, where man has abandoned the soil, the Mediterranean scrub has taken over, a fragrant profusion of euphorbia, broom, pink cistus and agaves. Some routes may be temporarily unavailable for scheduled maintenance, please make sure to check with the concierge before hitting the road.
Walking times between villages:
Monterosso - Vernazza 2 hours
Vernazza - Corniglia 1 hour 30 minutes
Corniglia - Manarola 1 hour
Manarola – Riomaggiore 20 minutes
SESTRI LEVANTE WALK
Halfway between Genoa and La Spezia lies the charming resort of Sestri Levante. On one side of the town is the Bay of Fairy Tales, named in honour of famous former resident Hans Christian Andersen; on the other is the Bay of Silence. Embark on a delightful walk, starting in the oldest part of the town at Piazza Sant’Antonio. Stroll through elegant streets past colourful trompe l’oeil façades and enticing boutiques. Gaze at the views from Piazzetta Bellotti and continue to the town’s museum, Galleria Rizzi, then further along to the 17th-century Convento dei Cappuccini, which enjoys an extraordinarily panoramic position. Return to the Town Hall in the centre and follow a route to the sea front, where an aristocratic mansion has been transformed into art nouveau hotel, Villa Balbi. Your walk ends at the lovely Giardini Mariele Ventre, where a Little Mermaid, sculpted by local artist Alfredo Gioventù, drinks from a fountain.
Ask the concierge for a map of the Sestri Levante.
ZOAGLI SILK FACTORY
The lovely town of Zoagli, around 35 minutes from Portofino, has been renowned for its silk production since the 15th century. The Cordani Family not only continues the tradition, but is the only worldwide producer of traditional Genoese velvet. Admire the ancient handlooms in the factory and the sumptuous fabrics on display, and shop for luxurious products from ties and shirts to bridal dresses and furnishing fabrics. A wine tasting can also be arranged.
CHIAVARI
Known for its pristine sea (gaining a Blue Flag each year since 1987) and grand, Genoese-style palaces, Chiavari is an inviting seaside destination. A pre-Roman necropolis, dating from 8-7BC, has been uncovered in the area and the old town is home to a variety of 13thcentury buildings, including a castle and the nearby Church of San Salvatore di Lavagna, which was founded by Pope Innocent IV. The old town is a place of rare beauty, with fascinating boutiques and antiques shops set in elegant arcades, particularly in the pedestrianised Caruggio.
LERICI
Just minutes from the Cinque Terre, Lerici boasts swathes of beautiful beaches and spectacular views over the Gulf of Poets. Long a haven for Italian artists and authors seeking inspiration, in the 19th century it emerged as a destination for overseas literati too. The town’s defining feature is the imposing medieval castle that looms over the main piazza—today it houses a museum of palaeontology. Another great highlight is the dazzling 1.5-mile promenade that stretches along the waterfront past the harbour, giant rocks and sunbathers to a smaller castle that anchors the neighbouring village of San Terenzo. You could walk the route several times and never tire of the vibrant atmosphere.
MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS IN GENOA
Palazzo Ducale
The ancient seat of government is now Italy’s largest multi-purpose cultural centre, offering a packed calendar of art exhibitions in the splendid halls of the Maggior and Minor Consiglio. Admire the neo-classical façade and, with advance booking, visit the dungeons and towers.
Galleria di Palazzo Spinola
Experience what it must have been like to live in an Italian palazzo in the 17th and 18th centuries. The various former owners left their furnishings, drapes, silverware and a remarkable collection of paintings by major Genoese and European artists.
Palazzo Reale
This aristocratic residence has been magnificently decorated over the years, not only by the Savoy family but by two great Genoese dynasties, the Balbi and the Durazzo. Its grand reception halls remain intact with original frescoes and stuccowork, paintings, sculptures and furnishings.
Palazzo Rosso
In sumptuous surroundings, admire frescoes by 17th-century Ligurian artists and a unique collection of paintings collected over two centuries by the Brignole family.
Palazzo Bianco
This 17th-century palazzo houses paintings from numerous schools: Italian (Veronese, Caravaggio), Flemish (Rubens, Van Dyck), Dutch (Steen, Cuyp), French (Vouet, Lacret) and Spanish (Murillo, Zurbaràn). The Palazzo is also home to a vast collection of paintings of the Genoese school, dating from the 16th to 18th centuries (Cambiaso, Strozzi, Piola).
Palazzo del Principe
The villa, built by Andrea Doria in 1530, boasts an extensive series of mythology-inspired frescoes and stuccowork, created by Perin del Vaga, one of Raffaello’s pupils. After enjoying a tour, relax in the Italian Garden.
San Lorenzo Cathedral
Essentially Gothic in style, the Duomo’s façade is characterised by a black and white striped motif, typical of the Tyrrhenian Sea region. Among its treasures is an impressive 14th-century fresco.
GENOA SHOPPING TOUR
Discover the charm of ancient Genoa through the city’s charming old shops. Embark on a captivating walk through the tangled ‘caruggi’ (narrow streets), rediscovering heritage arts and crafts, crispy street food and bakeries bursting with local specialities, such as delicious local focaccia. Forno (bakery), drogheria (grocery store), friggitoria (fried food shop) are words that evoke the flavours and aromas of the past. These popular spots where people would meet and talk as they shopped, or just enjoy a meal and a glass of wine, are still as vibrant today.
GENOA ACQUARIUM
Plunge into the largest aquarium in Italy, where over 70 ecosystems are home to 12,000 specimens from 600 different species. The attraction’s spectacular range of inhabitants, from manatees to rays and sharks to Antarctic fish, make it a delight for all ages. Opt to enjoy exclusive activities, such as behind-the-scenes tours and exclusive viewings of dolphin training or penguin feeding.
GENOA “I WANT CANDY” TOUR
This historical tour comes with tempting benefits. Escorted by a professional guide, who divulges the secrets and mysteries of the city, you will discover pastry boutiques and coffee shops where chandeliers and baroque frescoes mingle with recipes dating from the 18th century. Discover centuries of history contained in cakes, pastries, tartlets and candies that seem to have popped out of a Roald Dahl children’s novel: Taggiasche olives made of chocolate, candied fruit, chestnut cream, fondants and the famous “drops”.
GENOA UP & DOWN TOUR
Seize the chance to admire the UNESCO-protected city from the roofs of some of its most beautiful buildings. This rooftop tour of Genoa includes a visit to Palazzo Rosso, home to an impressive series of 17th-century frescoes and an art collection that includes masterpieces by Dürer and Van Dyck. From the palazzo’s terrace, which is normally closed to the public, you’ll be treated to sweeping views of Italy’s ancient maritime republic. More amazing views of the sea and city of Genoa can be seen from the Mirador terrace, at the top of the Galata Sea Museum, the largest museum of its kind in the Mediterranean.
CARRARA MARBLE QUARRIES
Discover the enchanting world of Carrara marble on an exhilarating quarry adventure. Michelangelo, Bernini, Canova and Rodin all spent time in Carrara, among the Apuane Alps, sourcing material for their famous masterpieces. Hold onto your hats for this 4x4 off road tour that calls to mind the car chase in James Bond’s Quantum of Solace. Explore normally inaccessible places, travelling along steep, winding roads with your guide to visit Carrara’s three marble valleys and Michelangelo’s favourite cave. Look out for views of the ocean and even, on clear days, Corsica in the distance.
Lardo tasting
The tour will pause for a gastronomic treat, when the guide takes you to experience a delicious product, exclusive to the area, called “lardo di Colonnata IGP”. See how the precious pork-fat delicacy is seasoned before being cured for months in Carrara marble basins.
WONDERS OF PISA
A 90-minute drive along the A12 brings you to Pisa, home of the famous Leaning Tower but also gems such as the medieval Duomo, La Piazza dei Miracoli, one of the finest architectural complexes in the world, and the famous riverside streets, Il Lungarni, lined with stately residences.
TREASURES OF LUCCA
Also along the A12 from Portofino, a journey of around 1 hour 40 minutes brings you to the idyllic Tuscan city of Lucca. Renaissance walls encircle the historic centre, where you can stroll along cobbled streets and through handsome piazzas. Among the wealth of museums, housing Etruscan, Roman and later treasures, is the Italian Comics Museum, set in converted army barracks.
VIP SHOPPING TOUR
Make haste to Serravalle Designer Outlet centre to discover 180 shops and a plethora of prestigious brands. Designed in the style of a traditional Ligurian village, the centre brings together a host of appealing stores, from Prada and Burberry to Gucci and Zegna.
